Sunday, August 7, 2016

La comida nicaragüense

Sweets at mercado central
(I was surrounded by doting old street vendor ladies when I paused near them long enough to take this picture)

Sopa de leche 10/10
What I will miss most about Nicaragua besides the language...
served nice and toasty from the metal bin on a womyn's head!


Nancita: fermented fruit 3/10

Polvorones: gingerbread-like cookie 5/10,
I was in scrubs loitering at an extraordinarily fragrant bakery when the vendor gave this too me for free,
saying something like it will make you give more vaccines! ...I think

Bogado: Nicaraguan cinnamon bun 7/10

Banana sticks covered in molasses 6/10

Guava 8/10
(Freshly cut and bagged mangoes with a dash of salt usually take preference for me)

Mamones, the Latin American lychee (but not quite as good): 7/10,
part of many sexual jokes because of how much sucking is needed to get the fruit out

Mamon juice: 9/10,
(don't be alarmed--this too came in a bag! but I transferred it to a cup to drink)

Nacatamale: the quintessential Nica food, loaded and pretty massive, sold only on the weekends

(underneath the banana leaf wrapping) 9/10

Gallo pinto: the other quintessential Nica food, served with basically every meal 9/10 (but not all created equal)

Churros Granada-style: small little nuggets reminiscent of blueberry bagels fried and covered in syrup 8/10

Churro León-style, with guava filling 8/10 (with creme de leche filling 10/10)

Banana chips 7/10
Everywhere on the streets, salty not sweet :(

Yucca chips 7/10
(Seeing as yucca is in the potato family, these predictably tasted a big like potato chips)

Manuelita: sweet crepe filled with the Nicaraguan cuajada cheese 9/10


I love my street vendors, and they love me

Saturday, August 6, 2016

La Ciudad de Iglesias

Just a sampling of the some of the Catholic churches of Leon -- in case you're my dad.

Iglesia de la Recolección

Iglesia el Calvario

Iglesia San Francisco



Iglesia San Juan de Dios

Iglesia de La Merced




Iglesia San Felipe


Iglesia San Juan

Iglesia San José

Iglesia de San Juan Bautista de Subtiava


Iglesia Zaragoza

La Basilica Catedral

Friday, August 5, 2016

Aquí las mujeres sufrimos bastantes


My time this summer has mostly been dedicated to conducting a global health research project designed by the four of us Yalies, to investigate the barriers to urban and rural womyn in Leon receiving Pap smears.  In addition to open-ended interviews, we also administered our own survey to 321 womyn in three urban health centers and three rural health posts.  Since some of our participants were illiterate and most wouldn't know how to use a computer, we had to read every single survey to each person, and then input each of her answers into the computer.  This involved a lot of struggles with old Thinkpad computers and Claro internet sticks, but eventually I became one mean, lean survey-collecting machine.  This meant A LOT of close, intimate conversations with the womyn of Nicaragua.  Occasionally we would have womyn who had never received any schooling at all, and sometimes explaining questions to them would be challenging.  And then some womyn just really did not understand the concept of "please rank on a scale from 1 to 6."  Some womyn loved to start telling stories in the middle of the survey about their aunts with gastrointestinal cancer and their husbands who sleep around with other people, all while I am trying to keep them focused on their most recent Pap smear.  One womyn asked me what the word "probability" meant.  When I asked another womyn if Paps contradicted her religious beliefs, she replied, Creo en el Señor pero también creo en los chequeos, "I believe in the Lord, but I also believe in checkups."  I learned that womyn have to provide their own cup for a urine sample, and their own speculum for a Pap smear if they care about having a sterilized one.  Most frustrating was when some womyn would just would stop responding or making eye contact when they didn't feel like they knew the answer.  And every womyn had a baby.  Or five.  Not matter what age she was, she had a baby, and she would not be afraid to whip out her breast at any time while talking to you to breastfeed her baby.  There is so much social pressure on young womyn here, that until they become a mother they are not considered a womyn.  Usually the baby would come before a husband, and before the end of high school.  When questioned for the survey, more often than not womyn would say they were "adjuntada" not married, which means they had a partner.  I have asked so many people here about that phenomenon.  Some say that marriage is just out of fashion.  Others says the more underlying cause is that since the culture is for the men to cheat on or abandon their wives anyway, in the end it is not worth the cost of getting married anyway.



An old janitor at one of the health centers sought me out, and we had a long conversation together.  She said, Aquí las mujeres sufrimos bastantes, "Here, we womyn suffer so much."  She felt that because of the pervasiveness of machismo in their culture, men are worse in Latin America than anywhere else.  She told me of a college girl in Managua who was recently killed because she resisted a man's advances.  She said she constantly sees womyn with bruises from their partners beating them.  They cannot leave because they got pregnant so young that they wouldn't have money to feed themselves or their children without a man.  From when they are little children, the boys and girls are treated so differently.  Boys are allowed to play, while the girls are supposed to do all the housework and chores.  Later on in a relationship, the husband won't want his wife to work, for reasons of ego, pride, and control.  Even if a womyn works, there is such a huge wage gap that they can barely support themselves on their own.  Since they are making less than their husbands, the men use this as a reason to control them and make all the family decisions.  Womyn feel no other option but to suffer through, because machismo is so pervasive it is the same with most men.  Given all this, when I asked the janitor about abortion as an avenue of empowerment, she responded that a womyn would have to be mentally deranged to consider getting one.  As of 2006, a national law made abortion illegal in all cases, including rape, child abuse, or if the mother will be killed by her pregnancy.

Nicaragua is so much more accepting of womyn breastfeeding in public.  I'm not sure if it is due merely to the abundance of babies or to a different cultural cause, like that womyn are so sexualized here already, people are willing to realize they do have boobs.  Ether way, the U.S. has a lot to learn.  In her talk last week, Gioconda Belli pushed everyone to imagine what it would be like if the workplace were actually set up for womyn rather than men, if it were a given that mothers should be allowed to work, and therefore they were given adequate maternity leave or areas to breastfeed, and sexual harassment was not tolerated.

The mantra of any global health student: exclusive breast-feeding for 6 months!

We made posters this week for the health centers to fix misconceptions we'd noticed.
We also gave charlas, or little talks with groups on womyn educating them about the topics and answering their questions.
We really felt like we were starting the important conversation about the HPV vaccine among the León health centers;
doctors in the public sector previously had little info about it and wouldn't even offer it as an option their patients.

We got a brief chance today to shadow doctors & med students in gynecology and pediatrics in the one hospital in León

An altar burning in incense in the sweltering waiting room

All of the services in this hospital are free.
So crazy for the American that she had to take a picture

Wednesday, August 3, 2016

Laguna de Apoyo

Laguna de Apoyo is a lagoon in the crater of a volcano; the water was blue-green and so warm.
We had to hitchhike the last part of the way there with a very friendly family and their baby,
but it's much safer here because it's so common.  I won't say how many times I've done it for my mother's sake,
but let's just say we owe humanity to repay the generosity of strangers.

We stayed in a high-end hostel for the weekend (their cat attacked me with its claws).
Apparently all night long until 5 am, there was very loud karaoke and partying next door,
and the girls didn't sleep a wink, but I didn't even notice :). Still got 50% off though!

We kayaked, paddle boarded, and swam,
nearby locals were washing their clothes in the water.

It was so perfect because I woke up early one morning to run along the edge of the lagoon,
and then could immediately jump in the water and swim out to the far floating dock to cool off.

The parrots would say "hola, como estás" to us and even picked up wolf-whistling courtesy of Nicaraguan men.


We played bocce and ping pong lagoon-side but the howling monkeys were so dense in the trees above us,
we had to avoid the dropping poop.  I also had to duck to avoid a mango thrown at my head.

One of the highlights was sitting on the front of Hannah's paddle board
while she paddled us through the waves and (mostly) kept us balanced

Tuesday, August 2, 2016

Soy Sandinista, no soy Danielista

Friday night I attended an event put on by local feminist groups and womyn's empowerment groups.  The keynote speaker was Gioconda Belli.  It was incredible to see her up-close in person after reading her amazing memoir.  She is probably the most famous female Nicaraguan author and has come to be a symbol of the Nicaraguan feminist movement.  She joined the Sandinista cause very early on, recruited other members, transmitted messages, hosted illegal gatherings in her home, smuggled arms, was often followed by Somoza's soldiers, grieved when her guerrilla friends were murdered, helped decide national plans with the male Sandinista leaders, and played a huge role in the provisional government.  Now she and many of her fellow Sandinista revolutionaries feel betrayed by the current FSLN government.  The panel of female activists at the event gave fiery talks telling the womyn of Nicaragua and every dutiful citizen not to vote.  Ortega's government will not allow a fair national election; they have refused international observation.  They are expected to burn the ballots and will only announce the fictional percentage by which Ortega won the presidency.  By voting, citizens acknowledge that they are participating in a democratic process, and they agree to accept the results even if their candidate loses.  Activists are urging Nicaraguans to refuse to participate in a corrupt dictatorial process that feigns at democracy.  There is no space for an opposition to freely exist.  Every Wednesday in Managua there are protests against Ortega, and every Wednesday they are shut down, with protestors jailed or killed.  The FSLN changed the constitution so that Ortega could hold multiple consecutive terms as president.  Daniel Ortega was accused of sexual abusing his preteen stepdaughter for years, but through underhanded dealings held onto power.  His wife, the mother of his stepdaughter, disowned her daughter in exchange for political power from Ortega, and she's now the virtual prime minister.