Reflections upon leaving Taiwan

Some reflections on Taiwan written from my yoga mat (aka 'my personal item') fully unfurled in the middle of the gate:  I’m wearing the same outfit as when my parents sent me off from the Indianapolis Airport.  It feels like nothing has happened since then, but also that I’m an entirely different person.  Moving abroad is something everyone should do at least once.  It teaches you what you value about a community, what you value of your material possessions, what you value in friends.

I didn’t realize how homogeneously academic my circles were until I came here and met teachers, billionaires, make up artists, yoga teachers, dancers, ping pong coaches, painters, chefs, unemployed travelers, people with foot fetishes, etc.  I feel like I can get along with any sort of person, after I’ve met so many new ones over the past two years.  Some transient, some very meaningful, like my acro community.  They surprised me with matching customized shirts during our last jam and made a circle to all base me without me touching the ground.  I was really touched. 

Taiwan is an extremely special place, not only in my heart but also as a model of a successful transition from a military state to a vibrant democracy, over the 80s and 90s becoming so safe it now feels utopian.

In my last few weeks in Taiwan, when I thought I was done adding people to my life, I befriended a Taiwanese guy (he came up to me on the street in Wanhua) who is a basketball agent.  He specializes in bringing Taiwanese American college players, who could never dream of making pro in the US, to Taiwan where they’ll become MVPs.  As a result, he’s an expert in Taiwanese immigration policy and uses KMT historical records from when the party was still in mainland China.  He can spot Chinese heritage by the chunkiness in a player’s calves—Taiwanese people have often praised me for my slim calves (actually they’re quite muscular, thank you very much), another beauty standard based on the colonizer.  “Imports” or foreign players, i.e. Dwight Howard, are otherwise tightly controlled in the two Taiwanese professional leagues because they have such an influence on the play.  Only two from each team are allowed on the court in the first three quarters, and only one in the last quarter.  My new friend got us VIP passes for a game which only when I got to the stadium (和平籃球場 right across from my dorm building) did I notice that it was THE FINALS.  Jeremy Lin’s team had already been eliminated, but I got to see his little brother play, a contender for MVP.

In my last few days in Taiwan, my friend who is a semi-professional table tennis player took me to the ping pong dungeon, where I got free lessons all night.  Ping pong is so dominated by Asians, that my friend learned Chinese as an adolescent to better communicate with his coaches and as he was traveling to Asia for competitions so frequently.

My friend also happens to be opening a chicken & biscuits restaurant in Taipei

My last day in Taiwan, I wanted 刮痧, an anti-inflammatory scraping technique of Traditional Chinese Medicine.  My friend and I ended up at a stall inside a traditional market that had one massage table and a curtain.  My friend got too scared, but I had a great scrape.  First was a warmup of vigorous massage.  Then the masseuse used a glass jar suction-cupped to my skin to rub along my back.  He used oil and a bilobed wooden disc to scrape my neck.  Finally, he cracked all the bones in my spine.  It didn’t hurt as much as I was expecting; he said I have good pain tolerance and that men are more scared of the pain.  The redness supposedly indicates that your muscles needed this detoxifying anti-fatiguing process, but I think it indicates you’re an extremely pale person.

I had a last lunch of 小籠包 soup dumplings and with T and Juliet (she brought me a matcha mochi doughnut as a going away present).  After a last dinner at Din Tai Fung with April, Ryanna, and Charlie, my friends accompanied me to the airport.  I’m excited to be moving on to the next stage in my life.  I have a lot that I’m looking forward to.