Wednesday, August 27, 2025

Switzerland

We were looking for a new place to go on vacation that wasn’t going to be super hot in the dead of summer, so we chose Switzerland since I randomly have multiple friends who live there.  Turns out it’s still super hot in the dead of summer, but also that Switzerland is famous for its natural swimming spots!  Zurich has urban parks where bathers lounge in the grass and then wade into the lake.  At noontime, we saw the businesspeople of downtown eating their lunches while splashing in the creek.  Supposedly, some workers pack their professional clothes in a dry bag and float with the current of the Limmat to work every day.  In addition to this, there’s excellent public transportation for which everyone uses the same app.  Locals are more likely to own a bike than a car.  Cars stop at all the crosswalks for pedestrians even without a stop sign.

Rentenwiese pictured here, also went to a similar park, called Chinagarten, where we spent a perfect last day in Zurich playing grass volleyball, throwing a frisbee, doing aero, swimming in the lake


My suitemate from all four years of college and her boyfriend live right in the heart of the old city, over a bar that stays noisy all night long.  Unlike other countries’ old towns, it felt special that Zurich’s was a place where real locals lived and worked, and there was industry besides tourism.  My friends were incredible hosts who took us for gorgeous walking tours.  There were tons of thrift stores (brockenhausen) which suited Steve.  We ate at Hiltl, the oldest vegetarian restaurant in the world.  Overall, there were excellent vegan options and international food options throughout the urban areas of Switzerland.


The public fountains all provide fresh drinking water


We tragically arrived one day too late (due to me working a 24 hour shift at the hospital) to experience Zurich’s Street Parade (an open air EDM music festival).  My friends were embarrassed that the city streets had a minuscule amount of trash as a result.  The next Saturday in Zurich was the Limmat float where swimmers all got inflatable axolotls and sent down the river on a section normally reserved for boats.  It was reminiscent of the Sun Moon Lake swim I’d done in inner Taiwan.  


Lindt chocolate factory


Seebad swim club in Lucerne, view from the bar

After Zurich, we spent a day in nearby Lucerne.  It also had a picturesque old town with winding cobblestone streets and a covered bridge crossing the river.  Walking down the tree-lined path by the river (wishing we had our rollerblades), we happened upon an amazing swim club.  It was full of Swiss people sunbathing on the elevated deck, drinking Aperol spritzes, and cooling off in Lake Lucerne.  Afterwards, I was on a hunt to try raclette, the Swiss specialty of cheese melted over veggies and bread (suspiciously similar to fondue, the Swiss specialty of cheese melted over veggies and bread). However, we only emerged for dinner at 8:30pm when every restaurant seemed to be closed, Switzerland being an exception to the European habit of eating late.  A bar owner ended up making us raclette pinsa while we sat at the tables of people having wine in a quiet plaza with a fountain.


Lucerne Lion Monument

 


We took a train then a bus then the steepest funicular in the world to reach a village called Stoos, that cannot be reached by (nonlocal) car.  The first afternoon, we did a stunning ridge-line hike between two cable cars.  The whole hike was soundtracked by the clanking of cowbells.  The heatwave with no cover from the sun made it sweltering.  We spent the night at the cozy Stoos Lodge, in a modern, wood-paneled room with floor-to-ceiling views of the mountains.  Opening the windows at dusk for the first cool air of the whole trip, we heard the eerie alphorn calling through the valley for the cows to come home.  The next day, we rented e-bikes to take around mountains that we otherwise would not have been able summit.  Regardless, we were barely able to descend; the trails were so steep with loose rocks.









Rösti (traditional Swiss hash browns)


Our next destination was Bern. It is a fairytale of a city, with the glistening blue river wrapping around the old town.  There’s even a park incorporated into the city that has bears.  


Rosengarten lookout


As soon as we saw people zooming along the fast-flowing river Aare, we knew we had to join too.  After hunting down a dry bag in the city, we walked along the river side path, passing bars and a beach volleyball court shaded by an overpass, until the launching point.  Steve held our matching popsicle floaties while I jumped off the bridge.  We bobbed along at high speed with everyone else until there was a sign in German at a fork in the river.  We reluctantly got out at the Marzili swim club with everyone else.  Afterwards, we asked a lifeguard and learned that if we hadn’t, the river would’ve carried us over the dam of death.


There are bears hiding in those trees





Eating local fondue despite it being 90 degrees outside


Bern was also extremely cool because the main streets of the old town all had cellars.  In front of every aboveground storefront, there was another entrance leading to an underground storefront.  There were extremely few cars, just occasional trams speeding between fountains along otherwise old fashioned streets.  The week prior the city had hosted a buskers street music festival.  Passing an old bridge over the Aare, we saw people doing parkour in the streets.  Then, we stumbled upon the Movement Park, which hosts regular yoga, acro, juggling, and slackline jams, and I decided Bern would be the Swiss city for me.


Tuesday, May 20, 2025

Sicilia


The Lombardo family tour of White Lotus sets (trip-mastered by my dad who hadn’t even seen White Lotus and was annoyed by our trilling of the theme song in the rented van) began on the beaches of Cefalù.



What my dad had planned as a sunrise hike to the cliffs over the city, we managed to delay until mid-morning, only to discover Parco della Rocca only opened at 8:30am anyway.  We also discovered a bag of Italian chocolate-filled cookies left on a crevasse just for us.  That tided us over until a lunch in the main plaza shadowed by the cathedral.

Tripi
Next stop on the tour was the Lombardo ancestral hometown—although the reception was surprising given the expectation set by White Lotus.  Tripi is a village terraced into the mountains of Sicily, now with population of only 108 people.  Its little plazas look out over green mountains, and its streets wind between abandoned houses.  Thanks to the work my genealogy- and Italy-obsessed boyfriend had done, we were greeted by the mayor, the archivist (Giuseppe), and the archeologist upon our arrival.  We were also immediately greeted by the first of many Lombardos we’d meet—Pippo, a strabismic man with unfortunate unmet need of his long-lost relative’s ophthalmologic services.  We couldn’t directly find any living town members on our family tree, but many with the same names as our ancestors.  The shopkeeper at the local store was a Lombardo, and the chef a the one local restaurant was a Lombardo.  When the mayor heard we were descended from a Lemmo, he called up multiple of his older relatives to see if any remembered the common person.  Giuseppe and the archeologist took us to the house where we think my dad’s grandfather lived, now with a tree growing through the roof and only 4 people remaining in the neighborhood, including Giuseppe, his mom, and his grandma.  They unlocked the neighborhood church where my grandparents (and many ancestors before) were baptized, confirmed, and married.  Additionally, they unlocked the crown jewel church at the very peak of the town.  Every year, on March 22, the area is packed with visitors for the festival of San Vincenzo, namesake to my great grandfather and many others.  Next, they gave us a tour of the tiny museum and developing Ancient Greek ruins of Abakainon.


When aforementioned boyfriend had to have urgent finger surgery and miss out on the trip, I was promoted to chief interpreter.  At first I was worried I wouldn’t be able to fill the role without any preparation, but then I ended up being able to understand 90% of the tour and really enjoy the language.

A highlight was the lunch at Trattoria Papa. The only seating was a picturesque balcony with a perfect view.  Chef Lombardo brought out a set menu of bread with olive oil, charcuterie, antipasti of sautéed greens, caponata, parmigiana di melanzane, arancini, and a first main course of pasta alla norma.  We couldn’t even accept the second main course of fish.  There were Sicilian red wine, orange-infused amaro, espresso, and finally local cookies with swirls mimicking Greek columns. 

Next stop was an unreal villa in the foothills of Mount Etna, owned by an Australian couple, Steve and Alexandra.  The outdoor space included a private tennis court, multiple patios and dining spots, a pizza oven, a wood-fueled hot tub, a hammock, a fruit tree orchard, and fantastic subtropical plants.  The White Lotus ceramic Moor's heads were everywhere.


After driving through fields of lava rock, we took a cable car over swaths of finer lava rocks towards the summit of Mount Etna.  We hiked on lava pebbles before nearly being blown away.  Grandma stole a rock while waiting for us at the cable car station.


The prettiest city was Taormina.  There’s a reason all the resorts are there, including the Four Seasons hosted in an old palace, AKA The White Lotus.  Every town in Sicily had cobblestone streets, carved stone archways, alleyway lookouts to the sea, balconies heavy with dangling flowers and overgrown succulents—but Taormina was to the max.  Driving around said steep, narrow streets in the oversized manual van nearly killed my father.



Teatro Antico ruins allowing a picturesque view of Taormina and the Mediterranean below




Isola Bella was my absolute favorite.  It is a tiny island only reachable by walking over a shallow sandbar, after hiking down to the main beach.  In the 1960s, all the components of a house were built into the rock, with rooms and pools nestled into different alcoves of the island, separated by little paths through gorgeous plants.  I liked imagining residing there and hosting parties in the botanical gardens.

Arancini

Pistachio pasta




















In Siracusa, we stayed in an adorable apartment with a balcony (always) above the fish market on the little peninsula of Ortigia.  I loved swimming in the ocean and running along the outer wall of the peninsula.  We visited more ruins: Apollonion casually in the center of the city and the Parco Archeologico Neapolis further out.  The Neapolis was super cool park that you can roam around, sometimes coming upon ancient ruins, sometimes coming upon modern sculptures and caves.



Ear of Dionysius cave

Next White Lotus day trip was Noto, a luminescent baroque masterpiece.  We sat on the cathedral steps at golden hour listening to a street trio’s music, then walked to an outdoor dinner of mostly tagliere, wine, bread, and valerian (tender Italian green) under the hanging street lights.  We missed their flower festival by only one week, where flower petals form intricate sidewalk designs.


Finally, we ended in Palermo. 
 Palermo felt the most like a real city. Still, every corner to which we wandered on foot was gorgeous and historic.  Sicilian architecture was mostly like northern Italy but with palm trees interrupting the skylines and cacti the sidewalks— and with a countryside marked by old abandoned houses.  We hit Via Maqueda perfectly on Saturday night to see its packed chaos, the Bourbon Street of Sicily.


View from the Airbnb

Cattedrale di Palermo

Mercato di Ballarò, crazy at lunchtime

Via Maqueda, crazy at evening time

Quattro Canti intersection


Piazza Bellini

Teatro Massimo