Cerro Negro

Craters of Cerro Negro

Last Sunday morning, Maggie, Vishnu, and I hiked to the top of Cerro Negro, which was one of the most amazing hikes I've ever done.  There is a clear line where the bright green of the surrounding hills turns into the perfectly black ash and rocks of Cerro Negro.  First we climbed over boulders, then towards the top we were trudging through powdery black volcanic sand, all while carrying the wooden boards we would use to slide down the steep side of the volcano from the very top.  We were following a narrow trail along the mouth of a crater, and the wind picked up such that we had to hold the boards flat to avoid getting blown over the edge.  One on side we could see the Pacific Ocean a little ways away, and looking the other direction we could see a whole chain of volcanos.  There were all different colors of volcanic sand from various minerals, and a ton of fumaroles.  If you brushed away the top layer of dirt, the ground beneath was steaming hot.  After milling around the summit, we put on our canvas orange jumpsuits, goggles, and bandanas, and one by one volcano boarded down.  It was a crazy steep, huge hill of black sand, and the guide lied when he said you can control your speed.  Anyway it was never too fast because I always knew if I wiped out I could just roll down the rest of the way all protected by my thick jumpsuit.  Vishnu had quite the wipeout.  At the bottom we all ate Nicaraguan fruits, and then rode in a truck along scenic dirt roads back to Leon.  Our guide had brought a womyn for their first date (where they were followed the entire time by a group of Americans), which was hilarious.  She showed up in a nice outfit and he carried her board and supplies all the way up.  She was really scared to board down; at one point they were both on one board and at another point she was flying down the hill screaming while he was chasing after her.  I can only imagine how the second date will compare.  Overall, a must-see of Leon and my favorite experience since being here.  Second favorite was the roof of the cathedral in Leon, and third favorite was hiking to the Cristo de la Misercordia in San Juan del Sur.

I also went to Catholic mass that night, which is much like Hispanic mass in downtown Indy except in an incredibly decadent church.  Also, a beggar walked down the center aisle tapping on people's shoulders as the priest was saying mass.  It must have been some sort of feast day, because mass ended by everyone turning to the huge statue of Mary that was front and center behind the altar, and the priest shouting "long live the lady of mercy," to which we all responded "¡viva!"

The day before was the celebration called Anniversary of the Massacre in Leon.  Local university students dress up as the old National Guard of Somoza and drive around in military-style trucks.  Then, to reenact the massacre of July 23, 1959, they chase after other university students and pretend to beat them and put them in their trucks.  It’s all great fun for the college kids, but also while commemorating the ultimate sacrifice of those original massacred students.